About 600 km south of Algiers, at the gates of the Sahara, Ghardaïa is the capital of the M'zab Valley. With its neighbouring towns it forms one of the most original urban landscapes in the world, listed by UNESCO in 1982 and admired by modern architects for its simplicity.
The ksour of the M'zab
The valley was settled by the Mozabites, an Ibadi Berber community, who built five fortified towns between the 11th and 14th centuries: El Atteuf (the oldest), Bou Noura, Beni Isguen, Melika and Ghardaïa, founded around 1050 and today the largest. Two more, Guerrara and Berriane, were added later. Each town climbs a hill in a pyramid of houses around its mosque, with its own palm grove below.
In Ghardaïa
Wander the narrow lanes of the old town, between stone and clay houses painted in soft blues and ochres. The great mosque at the top was the first building of the city and once served as fortress, school and court. Below, the market square hosts the biggest souk of the region: spices, dates, jewellery, leather and, above all, carpets.
Ghardaïa carpets are woven from wool and goat hair in geometric patterns of red, black and ochre; a carpet festival is held every spring. The folk museum in the lower town shows a furnished traditional house.
Beyond Ghardaïa
Beni Isguen, the holy town, is visited only with an official guide; do not miss its Boulila watchtower and the evening auction market. Melika is known for the cemetery and mausoleum of Sidi Aïssa, and El Atteuf for its old mosque. In the palm groves, the dams and channels that share flood water between gardens show centuries of engineering.
Taste and customs
Mozabite hospitality is legendary. Try tiftitine, small pasta with a date sauce, and the date couscous served at weddings. Dress modestly, and respect the rule against photographing residents in the holy towns.
Visit with SEFAR Aventure
Our three-to-four-day M'zab circuit includes official guides, a stay in a traditional house and transfers from Algiers. It combines well with the Algiers circuit or with a Sahara trip.
